Sea Grass Monitoring - Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

Seagrass Mapping

Fuze Ecoteer Outdoor Adventures operates out of Perhentian Kecil in Terrengganu state of peninsular Malaysia’s north east coast. The team has a base in Kampung Pasir Hantu, affectionately called the Fisherman’s Village, on this ‘small’ island.

The organisation offers a unique opportunity for those looking for a tropical island volunteering experience. Providing the space to live in and witness Malay fishing community life, whilst observing the underwater environment within the Perhentian Island Marine Park. With a focus on Community Engagement, Turtle Conservation, and Marine Habitat Monitoring, anything from a few days to a few months builds your opinion in the discussion of the benefit of tourism within conservation.

During the August of 2018, I travelled to Perhentian Kecil to participate in the Seagrass Monitoring activities. Turtles feed off the seagrass meadows around beaches during the multi-day egg laying process. The strength of the turtle population on the islands depends on the quality of its food source. With a love of scuba diving, an interest in endangered species habitat preservation, and an inquisitiveness to experience the scientific approach to environmental data collection, it felt good to jump off the boat at the jetty one morning at the Fisherman’s Village.

Met by Carlotta, I was whisked around the village, introduced to the people at the Community base, then the Turtle project base, before returning to the Perhentian Marine Research Station, for a cup of tea and a briefing. It was a good introduction to the challenges of the ocean and the species that call it home. Discussions ranged from issues such as swallowing plastics to coral bleaching, to thoughts on solutions, via the data required on which to base action, and government policy to protect the ecosystem.

I had picked up my Open Water and Advanced Open water diving certificates in Egypt years ago, and had honed skills in a dry suit during weekend diving in the North Sea off the coast of Aberdeen. With a few warm water forays into the depths in Muscat, Brunei and Miri since, there was no need to take advantage of the PADI courses offered by the research station. Although the Rescue Diver option piqued my interest. But with only three weeks, I was keen to get measuring. For those starting from zero, this training program presents an opportunity to gain certification and underwater time quickly.

The following morning we set out to Long Beach to practice. Armed with a metre by metre set-square, a grid marked by fishing line, two weights, a 5 metre tape, a pencil and a writing board. With our scuba gear, we jumped into a boat driven by this weeks’ boatman and headed to the dive shop to fill up the tanks.

At the dive site we found the position of the last co-ordinate mapped, anchored and jumped in. Finding the last co-ordinate once again, we signalled to descend, fare-welling the sky and gently sinking to the depths below. At about 10 metres we levelled out, placed the first weight down on the sand, found the compass bearing and swam along it until the 5 metre string went taut, and placed it down. Then I’d pick up the first weight and swim it to dive-buddy Manon, handing it over above the second weight. That was five metres done, we had to do this 5 more times to get 30 metres, before placing the set-square down.

Once in position we signalled the location to Luen on the surface who recorded the GPS co-ordinate, then assessed the contents of the set-square. What species of seagrass was in it, what percentage was covered, what creatures were lurking on the grass, or on the sand. Writing the information on a board with a pencil, proving it was possible to write underwater, and upside down! Maintaining a stable position above the set-square was a challenge, my dive buddy had mastered it, I spent most of the time pirouetting on my head 10 centimetres above the sea-bed.

Fuze Ecoteer supports the establishment and maintenance of coral nursery sites, with resort partners. Broken coral is grafted on to purpose built bricks. Made from ground-up remnants of coral, the bricks form a simulated reef substrate, onto which the grafted coral attaches and grows. The coral and its brick can be transplanted to a new or existing reef once stable, setting the foundations to rehabilitate the area. Regular cleaning of the corals is required to foster the symbiotic relationship between zooxanthellae (photosynthetic algea) and polyps for the best opportunity for survival

Turtles return to the island to lay their eggs, navigating back to the same beach after many years feeding in the open ocean. The nutrient value of turtle eggs versus the value of the creature in the ecosystem is a tight balancing act. To maintain a minimum viable population of turtles, Fuze Ecoteer has joined with like minded organisations, and operates a turtle nursery, and monitoring program. Volunteers have the opportunity to participate in night patrols along the laying beach, support in protecting the turtle nursery, and skin dive to the seagrass beds to photograph the faces of returning turtles for monitoring purposes. Sleeping in a hammock on the beach, waking every two hours to walk the beach, was a very special experience.

Micro-Plastic in the ocean is a threat to marine life. Mistaken for jelly-fish or other forms of food by unsuspecting turtles or other animals, plastic is fatal in an animals digestive tract. A wonderful product when used correctly, plastic has significantly reduced transportation costs and greenhouse gas emissions. However, when escaping from the waste management system, it becomes a threat to wildlife. Single-Use Plastics will be a part of life moving forward, the challenge comes in keeping this material out of the ocean, and mouths of animals.

Plastic-Free Perhentians was setup as a way to inform tourists of sites where water-bottles could be refilled, and bins made available for recycling. With an education campaign to reduce reliance on single-use materials, and attempting to establish a disposal route for recyclable material, efforts are reducing the volume of waste entering the ocean. Learning from others in the process, and applying the success of the Gili Island campaigns, there is cause for optimism. Establishing a disposal route for recyclable materials is proving more challenging however.

Once all the conservation activities have been completed for the week, two steps forward, one step back, but moving forward, it was time to go diving. The dive sites around the Perhentian Islands are special. Particular favourite was Tokong Laut, Temple of the Sea. Standing like a pyramid in the ocean, with only the top metre visible from the surface. Once descending, the colour and activity on the rock faces draws you in, and the False-Clown fish and Parrot-fish beckon you to follow. Pulau Rawa has incredible sea-fans and the boulders strewn about create excellent overhangs and gorges through which to swim.

The passages down at 25 metres, combined with moving currents, it felt like flying over the skyscrapers of a big city

The opportunity to immerse yourself in the lifestyle of a Malay village is one to grab with both hands. An eye opening experience, after a few days the common challenges and behaviours that unite us as a global community are apparent. We all need food and water to survive, shelter to keep comfortable, and the feeling of connection to a group, either through family or friendship bonds. Walking through this Malaysian village, reflecting on times in big cities, and times in remote longhouse communities, from Australia to the United Kingdom, via Iraq, we all look to our economy and community to maintain basic needs.

With an economy based on tourism and fishing, the lifestyle is one of busyness in the morning, moving in to the slower, sleepy post-lunch respite, driven by soaring temperatures, before the reopening of hawker stalls for dinner. The smell of burning charcoal mixed with the cooking of Asian specialities at sunset pulls you down to the jetty and the informal food area. Searching for satay beef sticks, Nasi Goreng, and anything with a cracked pepper and ginger sauce, with a view out to sea, keeps me busy well into the evening.

Absorbed into a community village by participating in ecosystem focused data-collection exercises, is a great way to experience conservation. Witnessing the social development, economic advancement, and environmental impact of a fishing and tourism community allows you to appreciate the tightrope being walked. Seagrass, turtles, corals, waste management, people. A fragile interconnected network, each depending on each other. Take the opportunity and immerse yourself in this lifestyle for a few weeks. The Perhentian Islands, Malaysia, is a good place to start the journey.

Supporting coral growth by cleaning the Coral Nursery with a toothbrush