Reforesting the Borneo landscape

The ability for animals to move between parts of a forest is key to ensuring a healthy population. Habitat fragmentation from the clearing of land has a negative impact on the genetic variation of a species and biodiversity of an ecosystem.

In Malaysian Borneo, the forests are a source of many products that support life, and make our lives easier. Actions from history have made life difficult for many creatures of the forest. The forest-elephant, orang-utan and the tall dipterocarp trees are used as examples in this post. This piece introduces a project with the goal of returning a forest ecosystem back to pseudo-equilibrium, even if across only 20 meters beside a river, by reforesting wildlife corridors.

Trade has been moving through Borneo, the 'land beneath the wind' for centuries. Driven by monsoon winds blowing east for a season, then west, the island is a strategic location for the transfer of goods between India and China. Laying just below the typhoon belt, it offered safe harbor. From as early as the seventh century, Middle-Eastern and Chinese traders knew of Borneo as the 'land of gold', with reference to pepper. European interest began in the 16th century and remained since. Extraction of rainforest products to satisfy growing global demand has increased across the centuries. With fragmentation of habitats, life became even more challenging for the creatures of the forest.

Noticing an opportunity in 1881, the Englishman Alfred Gent formed the North Borneo Chartered Company. North Borneo, the precursor to Sabah entered the contemporary history books. Through the 1880's the company managed a land ownership boom, triggered by the commerce of Tobacco. The region delivered high quality wrap leaf tobacco, and became a direct competitor to that grown on Sumatra. Established in Sandakan, the Chartered Company delivered rainforest products and dividends to communities in Europe for almost a century. Tobacco gave way to Rubber, which stood aside for Timber, developing in parallel with Cocoa, and settled on Palm Oil for our generation. The last few centuries have witnessed forest-product extraction on a mass scale.

The rivers of Borneo were the main highways in the early years of the region. Moving product to markets at the coast, rivers were strategic assets. Plantations would reach down to the river-front, and areas were set aside to dry logs waiting on transfer. Loading bays were cut from the forest, beside the river. Denuding large plots of land along the river bank enabled easy transfer of log to boat, or log to river, to be floated to the port at Sandakan.

Removal of the tall Dipterocarp trees had inadvertently fragmented the habitat of the Bornean Elephant and Orang-Utan. The weight of the log pile compacted the soil such that the roots of future forest trees were unable to reclaim their place along the riverbanks once the timber industry waned. Re-establishing a climax community through natural ecological succession has proven challenging in these disturbed soils.

The protective cover for elephant had been removed, and the required tree branch overlap to enable orang-utan to swing naturally was taken away. Forcing orang-utans and elephants into open areas and in to conflict with industry, placing their long term survival at risk.

Plantation agriculture in South-East Asia is characterized by boom or bust cycles. With each transition the community picks itself up and embraces the next industry. Natural resources are finite and the next transition will depend on stable autotrophs, the primary producers of the ecosystem, being strong to support the next industry.

The trees and vegetation that make up the first layer of the Trophic Pyramid need protection, to allow creatures further up the pyramid to prosper. By keeping the trees in situ and biodiversity in equilibrium, the area should survive the next product extraction. Damage the forest significantly and it is not only an economic engine that is lost, but a causal driver of climate change strengthens. Habitat loss is a causal driver for climate change...

Research indicates that orang-utans and elephants can survive in fragmented habitats when moving between forest areas, as long as they keep a positive relationship with farmers, and do not damage the products being farmed. Minimising human-wildlife conflict in these fragmented areas is key.

There will always be a demand for edible oil, which is set to increase as the global population grows. Oil Palms are the most productive of all the edible oil plants. Encouraging sustainable Palm Oil production, rather than boycotting, is a pragmatic way forward. Indonesia and Malaysia are countries struggling with poverty and palm oil is a large part of their economy, employing many people. Palm Oil and its derivatives are marketed under many names, making it almost impossible to know for sure if a product contains it.

In Ecosystem Services terms, Borneo has been blessed with a strong Provisioning Service, manifested through great agricultural productivity, but also a valuable Habitat Service. Rather than boycotting Palm Oil, our energy is better spent on leveraging government and industry to allocate land to the most appropriate ecosystem service. ['Why not Boycott, Palm Oil, Sustainable Palm Oil Shopping Guide, Cheyenne Mountain Zoo') Cheyyenne Zoo app]

Legislation in Sabah currently stipulates that a 20‐m forest buffer zone is to be maintained on all streams over 3‐m wide (Environment Protection Department (EPD), 2011; Sabah Water Resources Enactment, 1998). 

By reforesting the sides of a river, even just by the regulated 20 meters, the animal has a protected movement pathway. By keeping it away from agriculture, human-wildlife conflict is minimised and a diverse gene pool is supported. These tree lined wildlife corridors along riverbanks are also important erosion protectors, reducing runoff to the rivers, which reduce river silt load. Trees are carbon sinks and sequester carbon dioxide, supporting our global goal of reducing CO2 in the atmosphere.

Enter APE Malaysia, an organisation operating with the goal of plugging the gaps in forest cover, reforesting the legally required 20 metres along the Kinabatangan riverbank, and connecting these forest pockets once again.

I joined the team in April 2018 for 10 days as part of the Borneo Wildlife Safari project. Our core team consisted of three engaging people from Sweden, Denmark, and the United Kingdom and guide, Mark Louis Benedict. Mark immediately injects motivation, and one is captivated by his knowledge and passion for re-establishing the rainforest. Five teh tariks later, our group had connected quickly.

The following day we drove to the village of Sukau, along the Kinabatangan River. Passing tractor after tractor of palm oil kernel laden trailers, observing hilltop after hilltop hacked open by palm oil plantations, it was easy to develop distaste for this crop. The yellow scars of bare soil show the ruts where the hillside is rapidly eroding, changing the colour of the rivers into which the soil rushes during monsoon. We stopped off at a local cafe, the first teh tarik of the day, served by a wrinkled gentleman smiling through a toothless mouth. The creamy palm oil laden teh tarik went down well, and I handed my 5 Ringgit to the gentleman, happy that there was a healthy economy in the area, and both of us were satisfied with the transaction.

We pulled in to the Sukau Greenview. The river takes center stage. Tea, coffee and condensed milk flowed freely, great Malaysian hospitality and a good travel group, it was shaping up to be a great trip.

Settling into the comfortable chairs looking over the river, teh tarik in hand, Mr. Benedict talked us through the history of the area. He introduced the challenges of the orang-utan, elephants, and local people, and how our money and time is used to return to natural equilibrium this part of the Kinabatangan River.

After lunch we jumped in to a boat and headed up-river. Seeing our first orang-utan in its natural habitat was special. Feasting on figs, it's similarity to humans was thought provoking. Further upriver we heard the Gibbons before we saw them, bringing back memories of Adelaide zoo. Further upstream a flotilla of boats had gathered, just as a fleet of cars in the Kruger National Park signals a special sight.

An elephant emerged from behind a barge, walking across the plantation road and past an offloading port. It was an eye-opener to see elephants so close to agricultural areas. Exposed and at their most vulnerable, the importance of tree cover and wildlife corridors around industrial sites was clear.

A non-descript road linking plantation to loading jetty, running perpendicular across the wildlife corridor presents a challenge to the animal, and the elephant was clearly nervous. Driven by natural instinct to roam along the river through an ever reducing range, the fear in the elephants eyes as it crossed this human obstacle was evident. A sobering reminder of the importance of healthy habitat in mitigating human-wildlife conflict. A sense of purpose instilled, we looked forward to the next ten days.

The sunset mixed deep purples with bright reds and orange, painting a masterpiece in the sky for a surprisingly long time. Reflecting off the river, this scene was added to my favorite Borneon sunsets.

Dinners were spent in the houses of community members. Sitting on the floor eating the tasty produce was special. The Malaysian flavors and textures and good simple chat each night brought further appreciation for the lifestyle of this community. The experience made managing lower back pain, dead legs and creaking bones (my legs are too long for this style of eating) bearable. When the karaoke machine was bought out on the last night, the bond was cemented. Queen's 'A Kind of Magic' brought the curtain down.

There are many great places in the world to wake up early and write one's diary. This will remain one of my favorites. Awake just before sun-up I made my way to the veranda over-looking the Kinabatangan River. Teh tarik in hand, without the tarik, I settled in to reflecting on this location and enjoying the sun-rise. Reflecting on the areas history, where it is at present in the global perception of right and wrong, environmentally and politically, and where it is heading. Reflections in pre-COVID19 times.

After breakfast we collect the seedlings and load them in to the boat. Seedlings are grown by the local community at their homes. Villagers pick up local seeds during their wandering in the forest and foster these until the saplings are about 1 meter tall. APE Malaysia buys suitable saplings depending on what type of soil or soil condition is being planted that day.

Once in the boat, we power over to site, the fresh morning air invigorating the body as it passes through the lungs. At site we offload the saplings and our tools, find a comfortable spot in the shade to do our morning stretches and warm-up routine. We are taught the techniques of planting, and of maintenance, then armed with our swords were sent off to practice.

Today was for tree-maintenance . Planted about a year ago, most of these saplings had survived. However the grass and vines had swallowed many of them, reducing the amount of sunlight reaching their leaves and thus lowering the probability of survival. It was our job to hack away a 1 meter circle around the plant. This space, free from vines, would ensure the sapling leaves had access to sunlight to produce the energy to power above the pioneer plants. Ecological succession had been given a little push to support rehabilitation of this area.

Within half an hour I was saturated. Humidity of 80%, 27C by 9am, the work was draining. We drank much water, rested every hour. But, by knock-off time at 11am, we were shattered. It was a welcome relief to get back to the boat, the wind in the hair and splashes of water refreshing the tired body.

Back at camp we cleaned our tools, packed the equipment away and rinsed the sweat out of clothing. Our group of four made our way to the four couches overlooking the river, and reflected on a great day over a cup of Sabah coffee before lunch.

The afternoon was ours to explore and my goal was to find a café serving teh tarik. Walking along the road to the next settlement I passed through palm oil forests to the left, a riverboat loading facility to the right, then heard excited bird chatter. An imposing large building with no windows stood just off the road, with funny round holes about a meter below the roof, like the turrets of a medieval castle. What looked like speakers were affixed to each corner of the building. The bird sounds, although realistic, did have that tinny sound that comes from the subtle vibration in a speaker. The building was clearly trying to attract birds. But which ones I wandered.

I found my ideal cafe. Up on stilts overlooking the river, the dining area, sheltered from the sun, was airy and relaxed. Teh Halia was on the menu. A big fan of ginger in my tea, I went for this instead. Washed down with condensed milk, the strong ginger flavour mixed well with the creaminess of the palm oil infused milk, and strong Malaysian tea. Now this is a good holiday!

Back at camp Mark explained that the building sought to attract the swiftlet, the bird that makes a nest using its saliva, a delicacy in some countries. My memories took me back to a visit to Niah Caves in Sarawak where I had watched bird nest hunters scale 100 meter high poles of bamboo dangling from the inside of the cave to get their product, all by the light of single AA battery powered torch. Farming the birds seemed like a safer way to get bird nests, and providing a new home for the birds seemed to support the theory that it preserved population numbers.

The afternoons were spent cruising along the river looking for elephant, orang-utan, Proboscis monkeys, and hornbill just to name a few. We had three hours each afternoon where the itinerary said we would undertake a census on animal numbers, but lacking end users for the data, we settled in to observing the scenery and wildlife from the comfort of our boat.

The following day we went tree-planting! Once saplings and tools were loaded we powered upstream. Setting up in the usual way, Mark introduced the patch of land we were working as a former store and service yard for timber equipment. Our boatman reflected on his time working on the tractors kept in this location. A rusting radiator grill laying in the forest was the only physical item that supported this story. Apart from the gaping hole in the tree canopy.

The tree planting process was simple. Pick up a hoe, grab a bag of leaves and find a stick and sapling. The boatman had placed sticks in lines, about three meters apart the day before and had cleared the required 1 meter diameter around the stick. We then set about the physically demanding work of digging a 30cm round hole with the hoe, laying a bed of leaves at the base of the hole for nutrients, removing the plastic in which the sapling had grown, and placing it in the hole. Then backfilling the hole with soil and leaving a mulch layer of leaves around the stem. A repetitive process, physically strenuous, but we could go as fast or as slow as we wished.

Mixing exertion with imagining the elephants that could pass here in a few years, and the orang-utans who will be able to swing from the branches in 5 years time created great motivation.

After three hours we had managed to plant the entire plot set as our goal that day. It was a very rewarding feeling, especially as the Borneon heat was picking up and a rewarding feeling of muscle lethargy was settling in.

Before heading back to the boat, Mark took us on a walk through the forest that had been planted five years earlier. We were looking to see whether the elephants that passed through a few days prior had damaged the emerging forest. It was good to see a rehabilitated forest, the leaf litter on the ground looked healthy, a strong canopy had developed and tree branches were beginning to intertwine to support orang-utans. Apparently a few more years of growth was required before the orang-utan could use them as a natural wildlife corridor. But at least now it acted as cover to keep human and wildlife apart.

We packed up our tools and made our way back to camp for the usual lunchtime, afternoon and dinner routine. We had six maintenance and planting days in total. The 3 workdays were split by a very relaxed day off in the middle where we ventured deep into the remaining old growth forest. Seeing traces of wildboar, and an array of colourful insects and birds gave us confidence that this part of the forest was healthy. Knowing that our efforts will allow two healthy forests to join and maintain the biodiversity of the area was very satisfying.

The trip ended with a visit to the Sepilok Orangutan and Sun Bear Rehabilitation Centre. An important center and an interesting day out, but I felt we were doing more for the species by creating wildlife corridors in their natural habitat than bringing them to tourist centers such as this.

APE Malaysia have a clever funding idea where for the cost of £10, three trees are planted on your behalf. At £3 per tree, this includes a year of important maintenance. For my donation, they planted a Bayor (Pterospermum elongatum), a Fig (Ficus sp) and a Obah Jangkang (Eugenia cerassiformis). Trading a few pints for the opportunity to step into that forest in a few years time, maybe to see an orangutan in the trees around GPS points N5.56790 E118.33520, seemed worthwhile.

Before leaving the last word to Mark Benedict and the APE Malaysia team, a special shout out to my program companions Emma, Richard, and Andreas, for being part of such a great experience. Now, listen as Mark summarizes the work that they do..